The best anti-aging cosmetics

We live, then we age. Put that way, it doesn't sound so bad, right? Aging is not a pathology but the consequence of multiple causal factors. Understanding them is the basis that will allow us to reduce their incidence and mitigate their effects. The best anti-ageing cosmetics are our allies, but let's take it one step at a time: why does our skin age?

THE EXPOSOME

Ever since the complete human genome sequence was published in 2003, we have known that our genetics are only responsible for 25% of chronic diseases. In 2005, molecular epidemiologist Christopher P. Wild, director of the International Agency for Research on Cancer (WHO/IARC), coined the term exposome to define the sum of non-genetic environmental and external exposure factors to which we are subjected from birth, as well as our organism's interaction with and response to them.

If "man is man and his circumstances," we could well claim that our skin is "the genome and its exposome," that is, the product of our genes plus our exposure to external agents. And this is magnificent news! Because it means that, no matter how genetically ‘imperfect’ our complexion might be, 75% of its aging process will depend on our intervention.

In the study of the cutaneous exposome, 7 factors have been identified that are related to its aging (Krutmann et al., 2017):

• Solar radiation





• Pollution





• Tobacco





• Temperature





• Nutrition





• Stress





• Lack of sleep

When we talk about taking care of ourselves at Beldon Beauty, we mean many things: maintaining a balanced diet with fresh, seasonal products, moving in the way we enjoy most, sharing time and laughter with those we love, and sleeping soundly. With this, we are already optimizing three causal elements: nutrition, stress, and rest.

Pollution and temperature will largely depend on our geographical location; and we have options there too, especially with the expansion of telecommuting. Urban life might not be the best for our skin; in fact, studies on this yield some curious data. Such as a higher incidence of acne and skin sensitivity in industrialized countries. Or that atopic dermatitis improves among those who enjoy the company of a pet and walk in parks or the countryside daily.

We discuss the other triggers of aging, particularly solar radiation, in our post Solar Cosmetics. We already know that photoprotection is ESSENTIAL 365 days a year. What can the best anti-aging cosmetics do for us?

VITAMIN A

What it is and what it contributes to the skin

We usually use the generic term "retinol" to refer to "retinoids," which is the group of molecules derived from vitamin A. Thus, we have: retinoic acid (tretinoin, in lower concentration), retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, and retinol.

The success of retinoids is due to the fact that their extremely low molecular weight allows for dermal penetration and intracellular action. In dermatology, retinoic acid is considered a "gold standard," that is, the most effective, optimal, and benchmark active ingredient. 100 times more effective than retinol, its potency also makes it the most irritating, which is why it is considered a medication indicated for specific treatments and subject to medical prescription.

Retinol, on the other hand, is well-tolerated and allows for sustained cosmetic use, provided the concentration is correct. Its benefits are multiple:

• Cell activation and repair





• Strengthening of the barrier function





• Increased synthesis of collagen, hyaluronic acid, and elastin





• Reverses photoaging and evens out tone





• Depigmenting. It stabilizes the melanocyte, preventing it from increasing in size and causing the irregular production of melanin that leads to dark spots





• Increased hydration, improves skin texture





• Without being an exfoliant, it promotes epidermal turnover





• Seboregulatory action, controls oil production. "Tightens" the pore





• Improves wrinkles, scars, and acne marks





• Regulates the keratinization process





• Has an antioxidant effect

How to choose a good retinol cosmetic

When faced with a product containing retinol, we must pay special attention to its composition, concentration, and formulation. This is because retinoids present two problems:

1- They are sensitive to oxygen, light, and heat and, therefore, extremely unstable; and

2- They can cause mild to intense irritation (discomfort, redness, and flaking).

Cosmetic laboratories have strived to find formulations that solve both. At the forefront of them all is the British brand Medik8, which has patented the following advances:

1- The creation of retinyl retinoate, a super-molecule that fuses retinol and retinoic acid and is capable of increasing collagen production up to 8 times more than retinol.

2- The development of a dermal delivery system with controlled release time, Time Release (TR™). The house describes it as follows: “All Medik8 vitamin A serums use active encapsulation in a micro-fluid or polymer shell. As the serum is rubbed into the skin, the encapsulation breaks down and the vitamin A is slowly released into the skin. This significantly minimizes the risk of irritation and ensures that skin benefits are received slowly over an extended period of time.”

To prevent oxidation, Medik8 formulates without water (the base is nourishing safflower oil), manufactures its serums in a nitrogen chamber, free of oxygen; combines them with antioxidants; and uses specialized dark amber bottles. All of this ensures the stability of the active ingredient and, therefore, its efficacy.

How to include retinol in our beauty routine

Slowly, to avoid unwanted irritation, until tolerance is built. A good method to follow would be what Medik8 calls the ‘retinol ladder’:

- Use only 2 nights a week for the first 2 weeks

- The next 2 weeks: every other night

- And, if tolerance is optimal, every night from then on, even increasing the percentage of retinol gradually, if desired.

Daily sun protection, always necessary, becomes a must if we use Vitamin A. Although the retinol molecule is not photosensitizing, our skin will be more sensitive in general, including to solar radiation.

The star anti-aging routine would consist of Vitamin C ( Post-vacation cure ), followed by sun protection in the mornings; and Vitamin A when we go to bed.

Can we use retinol on sensitive skin?

One must consider that skin sensitivity does not constitute an epidermal type. It is an alteration that can be corrected. Retinol helps repair our cells by improving their performance and reinforcing the barrier function. Proper cellular functioning will result in normalization.

Thus, retinol can also be indicated for sensitized or reactive skin; the key lies in being cautious and seeking professional advice to choose the right product and protocol.

At Beldon Beauty, we are here to help you. Our personalized diagnosis ensures that you will have what your skin—and not someone else's—needs. Because our philosophy is that the protocol is defined by each person and that not everything is suitable for everyone. Consult us; we offer a Bespoke Online Advice service at: https://baldonbeauty.com/asesoramiento-online-a-medida/.

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