Debunking the myths of cosmetics

Myths. Some stem from the exaggeration of a premise that is more or less true; others—the most popular ones—survive for generations; many are fueled by the confusion caused by an excess of disorganized and unreliable information about new active ingredients and technological advances; and most are mere marketing products. Debunking Cosmetic Myths is a post dedicated to shedding some light on all of them.

Myth 1: “Our age determines the type of cosmetic we should use”

Dividing by age is arbitrary and driven by marketing, not reality. The condition of the skin depends 25% on our genome and 75% on our exposome. That is to say, our exposure to the sun, our habits (diet, smoking, alcohol), our geographical location, the quality of our sleep, and how we manage stress. These causal factors are what will determine the molecular processes of cellular aging, not the number on our next birthday.

Myth 2: “Dark spots are an inevitable product of aging”

Dark spots on the skin—solar lentigines or cutaneous hyperpigmentation—originate from continuous exposure to sun rays without proper photoprotection. That is why they appear first on the hands, face, arms, and décolletage. And, for the same reason, their incidence is anecdotal in those cultures whose beauty standard is extreme paleness, because they systematically avoid the sun.

Daily use of the appropriate sun care cosmetics for your skin type, in combination with antioxidants, is a successful preventative measure.

Once they appear, they can be treated with depigmenting agents like Vitamin C, Arbutin, or Niacinamide, to name a few that are truly effective without being the most aggressive; in addition to laser treatments.

Myth 3: “The higher the sun protection factor (SPF), the better”

A sun protection factor of 25 (SPF 25) protects against 92% of UVB rays; a factor of 30 (SPF 30+) protects against more than 97.5% and is considered the recommended minimum. A protection of 50+ (SPF 50+ or "total block," a term that is erroneous in itself because total protection simply does not exist) will only provide us with 1% to 2% more coverage. This implies that an SPF 50+ factor is not necessarily the best, especially if chemical filters are used on sensitive skin, which can lead to dermatitis and rosacea. As a general rule, and except for specific occasions (days in the snow, boat trips, prolonged exposure...), an SPF 30+ factor reapplied frequently is preferred and advised.

Myth 4: “I don't need to use sunscreen if my makeup already has SPF”

Unless we are talking about an SPF 30+/50+ tinted sunscreen or a BB Cream with SPF 30+ protection, conventional makeup bases provide insufficient or zero SPF. Furthermore, let’s remember that sunscreens require frequent reapplication, which is not feasible with makeup. Luckily, there are sun care products in stick, compact, or brush formats that are very convenient for this purpose.

Myth 5: “If I am very tan or already tanned, I don't need protection”

The risk of sunburn is lower, but it exists; and the damage from free radicals to the cells is the same. It should also be taken into account that solar radiation is linked to the incidence of skin cancer. You have to think of sun protection products as preventative medicine: they are mandatory for all skin phototypes.

Myth 6: “Lips do not need sun protection”

It is just the opposite. The skin on the lips is very thin and lacks sebaceous glands. Because it is in constant motion and in contact with saliva, it dries out easily. Your lips will appreciate a good moisturizing lip balm with SPF.

Myth 7: “Vitamin C cannot be used during the day because it is photosensitizing”

The confusion between the terms “photosensitive” and “photosensitizing” is very common.

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is highly unstable and photosensitive, meaning it is inactivated by sunlight. But it is NOT photosensitizing: it does not make our skin more vulnerable to radiation than it already is. On the contrary, if it is well-formulated and in combination with antioxidants like Vitamin E or Ferulic Acid, it protects the skin by helping to reverse the production of oxygen free radicals. However, it must always be followed by an appropriate sun care cosmetic so that the anti-aging tandem is optimal.

CLARIFYING COLLECTION DR. BARBARA STURM

Myth 8: “Acne is a young skin issue and goes away with age”

I wish acne were something exclusive to our adolescence and early youth! If that were the case, the output of the cosmetic industry and the work of aesthetic centers would be reduced by 65%. Such is its prevalence.

The truth is that the vast majority of skin types are oily. And when we say "the vast majority," we mean that 85% of the population has oily skin. Not everyone suffers from acne during puberty. Some develop it in later stages because not all sebum production has to do with hormonal activity. Unfortunately, others battle it for a large part of their adult lives.

The good news is that acne and its aftermath (scars, spots, hypersensitivity...) have a solution. A personalized diagnosis carried out by professionals will design a protocol adapted to your skin and lifestyle, so that following a treatment routine is simple and pleasant for you. Contact us.

Myth 9: “Washing with soap and exfoliating daily is best for acne-prone skin”

Sometimes it seems necessary to remember that the goal of advertising is to sell more, and this is the typical claim over which manufacturers rub their hands together.

The approach to any skin disorder, including acne, must start with prudence and gentleness. Washing with irritating agents and using an exfoliator daily will damage the skin barrier, depriving it of the hydrolipidic film. The skin will respond to this by producing more sebum to compensate. Exfoliation will cause micro-cuts that will attract bacteria to the pores, potentially leading to infection. At the same time, the skin will become sensitized and react with irritation, redness, and inflammation.

An aggressive approach is a terrible idea in the short, medium, and long term. It will only contribute to worsening the problem, causing breakouts and weakening an epidermis that will thin out, become reactive, develop dermatitis, and become even more photosensitive.

There are products that are perfectly suitable for acne-prone skin. Natural cleansers without detergents or perfumes, and gentle exfoliants that can be used once or even twice a week, depending on the specific product and each particular case.

Myth 10: “Makeup causes acne”

Acne has only one cause: excess sebum production. The origin of this can be hormonal or otherwise, and that is the first thing to evaluate before starting a treatment. Starting from a personalized diagnosis, a light makeup indicated for acne-prone skin contributes to its improvement and protection, in addition to providing well-being and confidence to the wearer. Taking care of the sensory and psychological aspect is also part of good treatment.

Any cosmetic used at random can worsen a pre-existing condition. The key is to let yourself be advised by specialists and obtain a personalized diagnosis and protocol.

What undoubtedly not only worsens acne but can cause unexpected breakouts is the lack of proper hygiene. A gentle but thorough cleansing morning and night—even if we haven't gone out—performed with the appropriate products, is the basis of healthy skin and the fundamental pillar that supports an effective anti-acne treatment. Without hygiene, we achieve nothing.

AYUNA SOAP

Myth 11: “Oily skin doesn't need much hydration”

Higher sebum production is not synonymous with higher hydration. Hydration has to do with the moisture level, with water; not with the oil level. And we have already seen that if the skin feels attacked, it will activate a defense mechanism through compensation that will produce more sebum.

There are excellent humectants for oily skin. For example, a low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid will allow for deep hydration that manages to retain water where we need it: in the intercellular matrix of the connective tissue, thereby helping to maintain skin elasticity.

The great advantage of molecular cosmetics is that it allows for the effective delivery of various active ingredients without overloading the skin, without clogging pores, without leaving a greasy residue, without a mask effect, without irritating, and without any feeling of tightness or discomfort.

HYALURONIC SERUM DR. BARBARA STURM

Myth 12: “Acids, such as Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and Vitamin A (retinol), are not indicated for sensitive skin”

False. At least categorically.

Because there is an essential nuance in the way this statement is phrased, and it is this: suitable Vitamin C and Retinol products, in their correct proportion and following a prudent and personalized tolerance protocol, can indeed be indicated for sensitive skin.

One must think that skin sensitivity does not constitute a skin type. It is a disorder that can be corrected. Vitamin C is an effective antioxidant that will boost the topical photoprotection shield. For its part, Vitamin A helps repair our cells, improving their performance and strengthening the barrier function. Proper cellular function will result in skin normalization.

Thus, both can be indicated for sensitized or reactive skin; the key lies in being prudent and letting yourself be advised by professionals who will determine the appropriate products and protocols.

DAILY RADIANCE VITAMIN C MEDIK8

Myth 13: “You should change creams frequently because the skin gets used to them and they stop being effective”

If the active ingredients are correct to meet your skin's needs, they will continue to work perfectly as long as these needs do not change; and there is no need to replace them with others.

It is a very different thing if your exposome changes and this leads to new demands that we must address. The skin is a living and dynamic organ, and its adaptation and response to the environment are what set the cosmetic trend, not the other way around.

Myth 14: “You know a cream is good because results are seen immediately”

Molecular cosmetics are precisely based on the investigation of the biological processes responsible for aging in order to mimic their mechanisms. This allows for the creation of biomimetic compounds that manage to activate our own metabolic resources to stimulate those that slow down with age, achieving reliable and sustainable results.

This takes time, which is biological and cannot be forced. As a reference, we should evaluate the effectiveness of a cosmetic once the cell renewal cycle, which occurs approximately every 28 days, has been completed.

Of course, a very different case would be if a new cosmetic caused us a visible and unexpected adverse reaction (at the beginning of the retinol tolerance protocol, some moderate irritation is expected), in which case we should stop using it immediately.

Myth 15: “You should use all products from the same brand”

No: you should use the cosmetic active ingredients that your skin needs for its proper functioning. It may happen that they belong to the same cosmetic house or not. "Brand loyalty" is a positioning and marketing strategy that sells the notion that products from the same house complement each other to achieve maximum effectiveness when used together. But it is a lie.

In fact, when you place yourself in the hands of professionals, usually that is not the case. Firstly, because a personalized treatment focuses on the specific needs of each complexion. And secondly, because very few cosmetic houses manage to be a benchmark for each and every one of their products. Generally, each one stands out for a line or specializes in a specific family of active products. And that is fine, because with the right advice, we can enjoy the best of all of them.

Myth 16: “You don't really need a night cream”

Regardless of the fact that the term “night cream” is a bit outdated, it is indeed an excellent idea to take advantage of the skin's nocturnal repair and regeneration cycle to make the most of certain active ingredients—such as retinol or peptides—which work at their maximum efficacy under these conditions.

NIGHT SERUM & AMPOULES DR. BARBARA STURM

Myth 17: “Pores close with cold and open with heat”

As openings of the hair follicle and the sebaceous gland, pores are always open. And we are sorry, but pore size is determined by our genetics and is invariable. At most, they increase slightly with age due to the loss of skin elasticity. That is all.

As for temperature, its fluctuation affects the tension of the skin surrounding them, not the size of the pore itself. Heat does not facilitate pore cleaning. This is one of the most deep-rooted intergenerational myths, but luckily, the use of steam as a preliminary step to a facial is now considered malpractice and is a thing of the past.

Having said all that…, what we can do is improve the look of the pore by minimizing its appearance. How?

• Starting with proper hygiene, as always. Cleansing with delicate exfoliation that promotes epidermal turnover will make the pore look smaller. It will also promote the absorption of the active ingredients we apply next.





• Among them, Salicylic Acid among Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) and Glycolic Acid among Alphas (AHA) are the ones that show the best results in promoting a biological peel that regulates—to a certain extent—the production of peri-pore keratin. Be very careful about experimenting with acids without any foundation, however. A professional will advise you on which active ingredient and in what proportion is safe for your skin.





• And if sun protection is a recurring topic in itself, even more so when we start talking about acids. Because we don't want to add solar erythema or hyperpigmentation to this problem, do we?

Myth 18: “The best cosmetics are Korean”

False. At least for Westerners. The exposome of Asian skin is very different from the Western one and, therefore, so are its concerns.

It is true that cosmetics from South Korea have been enthusiastically received in this part of the world. Their success is because they are very affordable and their packaging is tremendously attractive. Colorful and original, it is a product that invites you to play, to try. Their formulations are designed in the same flashy way, often with a single active ingredient and always in silicone bases that favor a feeling of lightness and “spreadability” but provide few real benefits. Of course, there are Korean cosmetic houses that escape this generalization, but they are not the ones that reach the West massively, unlike those formulated in laboratories in Japan, where regulatory and quality requirements are comparable to European ones.

Myth 19: “It is better to use antibacterial soap to wash your hands”

As we already explained in the post “The best routine for hand care”, the less aggressive approach is once again the correct one.

On one hand, the existence of bacteria on our skin is healthy and perfectly normal; abusing antibacterial soap could lead to the proliferation of multi-resistant bacteria.

On the other, frequent use of an antibacterial soap is unnecessary and harmful. It will only serve to destroy the hydrolipidic mantle that covers the epidermis, our skin barrier, and make us more prone to irritation, contact dermatitis, and infections.

Covid19 is caused by a virus, not a bacterium. Proper hygiene is achieved through diligent washing, not with irritating detergent agents or hotter water.

Myth 20: “If the ingredients of two products are the same, they are the same”

Two products might seem almost identical if we are guided by their INCI, but what really matters when evaluating each active ingredient is:

• a) its quality,




• b) the proportion used, which must be the maximum recommended to achieve its purpose; and




• c) its delivery system, that is, the use of technology that makes it more efficient, for example, its molecular weight. A lower molecular weight will allow it to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin, while a high one will make it remain on the surface, providing merely external results and having zero regenerative capacity.

The reality is that two products that have the same active ingredient as their first ingredient, hyaluronic acid for example, are most likely perfectly different.

Myth 21: “In cosmetics, the order of factors does not alter the product”

Just as molecular cosmetics allow a cosmetic product to not only be capable of fighting several fronts at the same time but also cause its components to enhance each other, gaining in individual and joint effectiveness; other active ingredients lose efficacy when combined. The most well-known incompatibilities are:

• Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) + Niacinamide (nicotinamide, vitamin PP, vitamin B3). The reason is none other than that topical Vitamin C gains stability when associated with an oil. Niacinamide has an overly acidic pH, incompatible with Vitamin C, and is water-soluble. Their combination does not cause harm, they simply lose efficacy together. The ideal partner for Vitamin C is other antioxidants, especially Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) and Ferulic Acid; but also Resveratrol and Pycnogenol.




• Retinol + other AHAs. This combination could cause damage because it is too aggressive. The use of both could be done on alternate days, once the proper tolerance has been created, but it would be advisable to do so under the guidance of a qualified professional.

RETINOL MEDIK8

Myth 22: “Cosmetics need perfumes to smell good”

Fragrances, natural or synthetic, are all irritants and provide no benefits, only risks. It is quite different for a cosmetic to have a pleasant aroma thanks to one of its components. Otherwise, it should not smell like anything.

Myth 23: “Chemical products are bad”

Everything in life is chemistry. We are chemistry. Any cosmetic product, even natural and organic ones, are produced and formulated in a laboratory with all safety guarantees. “Chemical-free” is an impossibility, an absurdity, and a deception. Chemophobia makes no sense.

Myth 24: “Newly created or discovered active ingredients are the best”

Not necessarily. Science advances and every new addition to the cosmetic world is welcome. That does not mean we should stop trusting “tried and true” active ingredients that continue to play their role and, in many cases, are still irreplaceable.

Myth 25: “It is good to rest for a couple of days and let the skin breathe”

There is no problem in temporarily reducing part of the cosmetic input, but you cannot forgo hygiene or stop ongoing treatments. In our post Skin Fasting we detailed the basic precautions:

• Do not skip the hygiene routine. Morning and night. The skin still needs gentle cleansing with the right products.




• Do not skip delicate weekly exfoliation. Epidermal turnover continues.




• Do not deprive the eye contour of its daily care with products specific to our most fragile area.




• Do not stop an acne treatment. Suddenly giving up the active ingredients we use for its prevention and treatment will lead to outbreaks and worsening.




• Do not stop any treatment for any other type of skin condition.




• Do not stop Vitamin A treatment. As we saw, the adaptation protocol for retinol is prudent—slow and progressive—to acquire tolerance. If retinol intake is avoided suddenly, the progress made will have been of little use, and we will have to start the protocol from scratch when resuming it.




• DO NOT SKIP SUNSCREEN. Never. In our Solar Cosmetics post, we explained extensively why photoprotection is essential 365 days a year. Even more so if, in addition, we are not providing our skin with a minimum of moisture and antioxidants to serve as a shield and support.

LAIT VIP O₂ BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE

Myth 26: “Homemade cosmetics are safer”

Some ingredients that we can find in our pantry or fridge, such as olive oil or coconut oil, can have harmless homemade applications, such as treating cuticles or moisturizing long hair. The problem is that others, such as lemon juice or baking soda, are not so harmless and should be used with caution. Likewise, mixing food products to create masks, for example, can lead to infections due to fermentation or poor preservation of the ingredients.

Myth 27: “Natural ingredients do not cause irritation”

Natural ingredients, which provide countless benefits to our skin, must be formulated correctly to ensure safe delivery. For example, essential oils are a wonder of nature, but their “pure” use, without proper dilution or formulation, can lead to very serious irritation and photosensitivity.

Myth 28: “If a product is hypoallergenic it is safe for sensitive skin”

To begin with, we suffer from an embarrassing legislative loophole in the European Union regarding the regulation of certain terms, such as “hypoallergenic.” There is no control whatsoever. Anyone can add it to their label and, simply, it is assumed that there is a lower risk of allergic reaction, but it is not guaranteed that the product does not contain allergenic substances. A lottery, in short.

To ensure that a product is safe for us, it is advisable to read the composition carefully and rule out those that contain toxins, fragrances, parabens, phthalates, sulfates, mineral oils, and oxybenzone, for starters. But the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) world can be complex for the uninitiated. At Beldon Beauty, we always advocate for professional advice to ensure that your skin will only receive what is suitable for it.

AYUNA, LESS IS BEAUTY

Myth 29: “In the world of organic cosmetics, seals like Ecocert are totally reliable”

False. Precisely the legal vacuum existing in the European Union regarding labeling with terms such as “hypoallergenic” extends to natural and organic cosmetics, which are covered by regulation 1223/2009 regarding general cosmetics.

This gap is filled by private companies that aim to offer certain guarantees. The problem is that they are random, unregulated, and have non-standardized norms. And they are for sale. That is to say, regardless of whether the requirements are met, these seals have a price and are obtained by whoever pays for them.

A fascinating topic, but so extensive that it deserves a separate chapter, is that which refers to the myths of traditional cosmetics versus natural, organic, and vegan cosmetics. We talk about them all here.

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